Im doing a few interviews for fluidzone.com at the moment, delving deep into the minds of SA bodyboarders,photographers and film makers.
Heres an exert from Jake Seabrook.
but most of my time spent was living in adelaide and even a short stint in kangaroo island
i like boobs and shinny things
when u started shooting etc etc
ahah im adding that
i will tell you how i first got attracted by photography
When i was 12 or 13 my cousin won a contest on the local radio station to fly up 2 family members to spend christmas with them. So she picked me and my sister. my sister just turned 18 and was a rookie with drinking and flying. she ended up blind drunk and throwing up on the rex plane which was a little embarrassing for the pre pubescent me.
ok question number 2
havent finished yet carnt
The last week I’ve been battling jetlag, heatstroke, sunburn due to my pasty european skin and stomach cramps due to ice coffee. Safe to say I arrived home all safe. As I walked through the door into Australia customs, first thing I heard was a thick Australian accent directing traffic into customs. Oh was it comforting, not only to understand what they were saying, but it finally sunk in that I had arrived to the best country in the world.
After travelling through Europe and other countries in the past few years, I have really come to appreciate Australia and even Adelaide. Yeah sure we hate good ol’ “Radelaide” when were here, but after I have travelled through cities like Rome, Paris and even Bali and realise how precious a 3 bedroom house with a garden on a quiet street finally is.
Walking through customs, I caught a quick glimpse of a blonde beauty in my vision, I was being picked up by my girlfriend so I thought I shouldnt check out another girl, especially when we were to reunited after 3 months apart. At second glance, I looked again and saw a familiar smile, after 3 months I had too look twice to see it was actually my girlfriend waiting for me at the gate. She had a bag waiting for me to welcome me back to Australia. the items included. 1. Ice Coffee 2. The latest Movement bodyboarding magazine. 3 the latest Le Boogie bodyboarding magazine. 3. Some brand new fresh undies.
I couldnt have thought of anything else that I could have asked. I had my refreshment, my reading material and even a fresh pair of undies, which after 30 odd hours of planes and airports was a pretty smart idea.
Hugs were hugged kisses were kissed and we were off to tick off my first check for my arrival. A swim in the ocean. After 2 months of city bashing this is what I was looking forward to the most.
The week has continued with all the usual catch ups and stories being told, a few summer surfs at the infamous knights beach wedge, numerous ice coffees, one shift at work and lot and lots of sleep.
I’ve also purchased a new car which hopefully should take me on a few adventures this summer, so stay tuned and hopefully there will be some interesting words being displayed on your screen.
I’m back from a hiatus, sorry to anyone that actually took the time to read these insignificant words on a screen, that describes my doing and goings. Truth is i actually never thought anyone actually read this until my travels across Europe.Two weeks I had three friends, living in three separate parts of the world, ask why I wasnt writing on my blog anymore.
So two months later, 4 countries on, I’m sitting on a couch in Parma, writing my first blog in about 6 months. This is to you, Martin, Dan and Jack, who actually read this.
So keep in touch for some more updates about my current travel around the beautiful continent they call Europe.
I love the odd road trip. Letting free on the open road, drinking ice coffee, chewing up the bitumen, talking shit with your mates. Its all good times.
So when I was at work slaving away at the daily grind last saturday, and Michael Watts messaged me asking if I was keen for a drive to surf the wave ’ Luna Park’ I was pretty keen. With further discussions I found out that we were leaving that night and were back on the following night. If you’ve ever driven along the great ocean road, you know this isnt a quick hop skip and a jump to the wave itself.
I sucked it up and we were off after I finished work. The drive over was pretty cruisy, Wattsy drove the whole way while I sat and watched the trees go by, talking shit and taking the odd 10 minute shut eye. After a long 9 hour drive, we finally arrive at 5am that morning. We planned to have a few hours shut eye before we met to friends from Melbourne in the carpark.At 630 they arrive, we barely had an hour and halfs sleep, I was wobbly on my feet, feeling dizzy and disoriented from minimal sleep whilst we were walking up and checked the waves.
If you’ve ever checked out Lunas, it looks almost pretty fun from the cliff, looks half the size and not nearly as heavy as it does from the water. We were watching sets unload on the ledge trying to amp myself up, just to get into my wettie when the air temp is in single digits. Watching from land I was convinced it was only like 4-5 foot, when I asked Luke ( dude from Geelong) how big he thought it was, with his reply “oh 6 foot minimun…oh shit nah that sets easy 8 foot’………I thought holy fuck surely not.
When paddling out I saw what he meant. Lunas is next level, the surroundings, the wave and cold, it all plays a part in scaring the shit out of you.
Long story short I caught a few waves, got smashed on my first one hit the reef numerous times and ragged dolled. 2nd wave same thing, I was pretty rattled after a few waves. I ended up catching a few more, but after Benny free fell top to bottom on a set wave and got absolutely hammered, rolling over the ledge and loosing his board, I had enough.
We all went in and decided to get some food and check some other spots. Long story short we surfed 3 times, all three times were in either pumping waves or in super fun waves.
The drive back was even worse with me and Wattsy on barely 2 hours sleep, and surfing all day having to drive 9 hours back home.
Wasnt defiantly as fun as it sounds.
Few photos from my phone I took before we paddled out.
summerset has just released their winter 2011 range. Personally i think its the best range yet, few different tees in the range this year to mix things up. Snap a few up before they sell out, check out their website www.summersetclothing.com to order a few of these badboys for yourself.
Knights produced a couple of wedges mid week. Minimal crowd and maximum wedges produced a good start to the day. A post surf feast at the port elliot bakery gave me food poisoning that night, spewing my guts up from 3am till 3pm the next day.
with money you can buy a house, but not a home. with money you can buy a clock, but not time. with money you can buy a bed, but not sleep. with money you can buy a book, but not knowledge. with money you can see a doctor, but not cannot buy good health. with money you can buy a position, but not respect. with money you can buy blood, but not life. with money you can buy sex, but not love.
After the other weeks session at a certain ‘ledge’ in SA, photos were flowing left right and centre on facebook. The Very fickle wave had showed its flare and teeth with some solid slabs going down all day. Unfortunately for myself i had to work that day! I was a lil bit annoyed because I havent had good waves in such a long time, and I’m over grovelling 3 foot onshore knights.
Along came last saturday. The week leading up to it the charts looked like they had instantly turned on Autumn with NE winds predicted for the first few days. Thoughts and plans were going left right and centre, as facebook and phones shot messages between fellow bodyboarders planning to get some long awaited barrels.
As the days went on, the winds turning round more than a windmill. Within 3 days the winds had gone from NE, North, NW, SW and then finally to ESE. I was confused to what to do.
I thought there wasnt much to loose and just headed over to surf the wave that has had a bit of local publicity of late. Hopes were high, the swell looked big and the winds were o.k.
On arrival our hopes were squashed. Seems to see that everyone else had the same idea with a full carpark waiting to see a wave worth while. Within a few minutes of us being there, a larger set approached and unloaded onto the reef, barreling and spitting into the channel.
That was enough for me, I was down there and into the water. The set seemed to be a bit of a once off. For the 2 hours in the water, there wasnt many waves bigger than 2 foot and had to wait even longer if you wanted to get you head into a little barrel.
Pat G was there trying to snap what he could of the waves. He got one little barrel of me.
Finally got another wave with the go pro. I havent had the chance to use it in fun waves since I made that clip of footage, month and months ago. This wave was actually from a few weeks ago, but I finally went through my memory card and watched it. Should have a clip up of this adventure soon. So keep your eyes peeled
On a recent trip in the state of Tasmania, I was talking to a fellow bodyboarder out in the water about the water temperature. Here I am sitting waiting for a set in my 3/2 freezing, when he comments on how warm the water is. I look at him and tell him that he’s tripping balls and ask him if they ever wear springys in tassie. He then looks at me with a blank face for at least 10 seconds. He then follows up with a serious….. ” what’s a springy” Sums up the water temp in tasmania to the tee.
Being a bodyboarder, I’m exposed to the sun a fair bit. Skin cancer is one of the biggest killers in Australia, and theres nothing worse than coming home from a days surfing feeling red raw, and burnt. It just sucks!!.
The good guys at Sunzapper have been looking after my skin for the last 3 years now. From experience I’ve found that their products work pretty damn well( I’ve had my skin checked at a skin clinic, and have been told I look after it pretty well, considering Im in the sun a lot). Their zincs, sunscreens and lip balms are the products can be found in all good supermarkets and surf shops.
The top guys at Sunzapper have sent me some product to share the love around and help protect some other peoples skin with.
If you want to win some Sunzapper product, shoot me an email to firstname.lastname@example.org saying why it’s important to look after your skin. First 3 emails will receive-
1x Sunzapper Tone coloured zinc stick
1x Sunzapper Zinc pack ( blue white and pink zinc sticks)
The time has come around again, and I’m amping to say that I have signed with HB bodyboards for 2011. I’m stoked to be representing a brand that produces such a good quality of equipment and is always run by a bunch of legends. I’m personally looking forward to riding their boards again for another year!
If your wanting to check out HB’s gear and keep up to date with the happenings of the HB team head to their Facebook.
Yesterday my good mates Lance and Matt, joined myself on a adventure in search of a mystery wave that I caught wind of a few months ago. The wave itself lays out a bit further into the ocean than most waves so little swell is needed for it to work.
At work the day before I checked the buoys, and saw this little part of the coast was showing some potential, small enough swell and perfect winds. I was on the horn with my fellow compondres getting them keen to suss it out.
The car was packed and the radio high. Venturing down the long black straights on way to some barrels and good times.
5 hours and 400 km’s or so later, we arrived at the destination. We set up the sleeping arrangements to catch a few Z’s before a whole day of barrels.
The next morning we awoke and climbed the dunes to see what we had come for. We got to the top, we looked left, right, behind us, straight out the front and then repeated. Surely we weren’t in the right place there was no right hand slab here. I climbed a higher dune to scope the coast line for a possible solution to our problem.
There was so solution. There was no swell, we found the wave but unfortunately all there was, were small lines wedging up onto the ledge and then continue travelling into nothing.
Long story short, we drove in total about 9-10 hours for a swim and a baked potatoe at a nearby town.
I finally got some good waves to use my go pro in. We ventured over to score some waves, and they produced the goods. We got 2 days of pumping waves with only a hand full of guys out. Was such a sick trip.
A few weeks ago, me and the heavyside brothers drove down to surf a lil wedge a few clicks from Victor. The track to this wave isn’t to bad apart from the large rocks the park rangers have placed on the road to deter 2wd’s going down there. On the way down it was fine, we were dodging the usual 100 kangaroos and slowly winding down the track on our way to the waves below.
We had a pretty average surf, 1-2 foot wedges coming through in near freezing winter-esque water temperatures, didnt really allow our froth bear to develop. But it was fun just to surf some where different.
But this story doesnt really start until we start driving up the hill on our way home. As we were winding our way back up the hill we reached the rock section. Matt, swung over to one side trying to avoid a certain rock, but in the meantime a wheel had gone over the cement slab and stopped dead with a sudden screech and thump.
Looks were blank as we looked at each other thinking what the hell that was. We jumped out only to see the muffler had been completely ripped off.I didnt know whether to be shocked or amused. I must admit, i was more amused laughing my fair share at the current situation. It only made it that much funnier that it coincided with the start of schoolies and cop hunt down on anything that they could defect. Especially an extremely loud subu